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Understanding Dressage and Horses

Admin — Thu, 04 Mar 2010 20:03:17 +0000

By Sonia Dixon

Advice on Dressage and Horses

Dressage is the fastest growing equestrian activity today. It covers training the rider, training the horse and preparing for dressage competitions. Classical riding and training methods have survived for hundreds of years, largely passed down by word of mouth. These techniques have been proven to do the greatest good for the greatest number of horses. It is all about the gradual, systematic and gymnastic development of the horse. The emphasis is all about training the rider, explaining the basic riding skills, which will enable riders to develop their horse's talents. Dressage appeals to all riders looking for humane and sympathetic approaches to riding and training their horses.

17 BLACK DRESSAGE LEATHER ENGLISH HORSE SADDLE NEW
US $119.99

BLACK ENGISH ALL PURPOSE 15
US $149.99

ARGENTINE TAN CLASSIC DRESSAGE ENGLISH SADDLE 17
US $149.99

Albion Ultima SLK 17 1 2 Dressage Saddle
US $2,750.00

Dressage horses for sale

Buying a horse is real business. Aside from the initial expenses that you would incur, there are other maintenance costs that are relatively taxing. This is why you must be very decisive when buying a horse, especially dressage horses.

While we may benefit from on-sale items, we still must discern if we would profit in the long run. Before indulging yourself with the least expensive horse at your glance, be sure that you are secured with your choice and that you will have no regret in the end. As we have said, buying a horse, any type of horse for that matter, is a taxing business. You would not want risking your money over an old horse that can't speed up while on track.

One of the major considerations when selecting an option for al horse is its speed. After all, horses are bought normally with speed in mind, not on the beauty of might or elegance of your steed but on its agility and performance. You are against no subjective rules while on racetrack but your bane is the time. Thus, you must give priority on how fast the horse for sale can go.

You should also put in mind the training a horse for sale has gone. Early discipline is vital with a dressage horse as this is not only a discipline-based event for horses; it also incorporates focus while on track. Earlier during the selection, you should ask for some display of skills.

There are horses that have problematic temperament, regardless if they are oriented to dressage. Even some of the best can present difficult behaviours at times. Common problems include hesitance before the competition, which may manifest during the onset of the game or the ending of the competition itself.

Some horses can be very aggressive which leads to missing the angles that must be hit to be able to perform the cloverleaf pattern perfectly.

Others, on the other hand, could be hard headed with following commands during the dressage level. Thus, common mistakes occur. Still others can be very timid or too deviant during the end of the competition, which could then result to delayed acceleration towards the finish. Put in mind that a slight delay due to the horse's hesitation while on the arena would mean lesser points on your end. Thus, you must check into the temperament of your prospect horse. Lower price is nice but if this would endanger your performance then it would be better if you go with much priced barrel horse with greater capacities.

Dressage tests:

Another problem commonly encountered with horses is their tendency to become tired of training. It won't hurt if you would ask bits of information about the horse's background. This way, you would know how to get around the stuffs that would stress the steed. Say, sudden change of environment would be detrimental for the horse.

As much as possible, if the horse got fixed with a specific atmosphere that has proven to be healthy for him, make it a point that this same environment can be partly adopted. In such case, you would need ample assistance from the previous owner of the horse.

Lastly, but certainly not among the least consideration is the justification of the price. Too low price, considering that the horse is for sale might imply lesser efficiency on the horse's part. High commanding price may also be too advantageous. Either way, you must discern things properly.

Sonia Dixon is a book reviewer, coach and author. Equestrian dressage is about techniques, competing, tack, horse riding, caring for your horse and more.

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Looking For That Perfect Dressage Saddle For Your Horse?

Admin — Mon, 01 Mar 2010 19:52:31 +0000

By Sonia Dixon

Saddles are usually made of wood, with the majority of saddles based around a structure called the tree, and the tree must fit the horse. Forget about cheap saddles. Why?

Because quite literally, you DO get what you pay for if you buy a cheap saddle. And it's not just that you will be uncomfortable, but it will not make your horse all that happy either, and may actually do him harm. Ok you've tried cheap and figured out that isn't the way to go. You've tried expensive and, well, that worked, but holy smokes are the prices ever high. So here are some tips on how to shop for your next saddle.

17 BLACK DRESSAGE LEATHER ENGLISH HORSE SADDLE NEW
US $119.99

BLACK ENGISH ALL PURPOSE 15
US $149.99

ARGENTINE TAN CLASSIC DRESSAGE ENGLISH SADDLE 17
US $149.99

Albion Ultima SLK 17 1 2 Dressage Saddle
US $2,750.00

Saddles can be priced from several hundred dollars to more than $8,500 - specialty or antique saddles can easily range into the tens of thousands. You're not going to be spending that kind of money, but you DO want to spend enough to get something decent and something that properly fits your horse. You will want to look for value, fit, fit and fit. Yes that's right, the most important thing about your saddle is that it fits right. Look at it this way, if you had something that was too tight or too big, you would feel very uncomfortable.

Why would you want to saddle your horse with something that doesn't fit? Before you go hunting, know the kind of saddle you want. Don't just have a vague idea of what might work, - have in mind a picture of precisely what you want. Then hit the road and start looking for the right fit. The saddle must fit you, the rider. English or western, jumping or cutting, pleasure or gaming, you must be comfortable in the saddle all the time. You don't want to be thinking about your saddle when you are riding. The right fit makes your saddle seem like a natural extension of your butt. If the saddle doesn't fit your horse, no matter how great the price, it was too much to pay.

If you're looking at ready-made saddles, then make sure you have the try it before you buy it option. If they won't let you try it, don't bother - after all you don't need to ride the horse more than a few minutes to determine fit. And if you put a pad under it and handle it carefully, you won't damage it. If the saddle is custom built, the saddle maker will want measurements of your horse in order to determine the proper tree, skirt lengths, gullet, etc. This is where you will be paying out good money.

Emphasize the good, because what you get will be precisely what you need, and what your horse needs. Having said that, the price must fit your budget. And just because your budget is low does not mean you can't find a saddle that has a proper fit. It just means spending the time to find it. Try this: if you are ordering a custom built saddle, tell the saddle maker the highest amount you'll pay, and then let him design to fit the budget.

Saddle makers can be very creative and stay within the budget. Or try buying a used saddle that FITS, and is eye-catching. That is often a better value than a new saddle. Are you into silver? Then only go with sterling because the silver-plated doodads and other imitations fade like crazy and are a waste of money. Just remember the saddle you want needs to FIT. That's what you need and that's what you want!

Sonia is a book reviewer, coach and author.

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History of Dressage and Dressage Saddles

Admin — Tue, 23 Feb 2010 19:44:43 +0000

By Brooks Wiley

The word "dressage" is derived from the French word meaning "training." Its origins can be traced back over 2000 years, when the Greeks used dressage as a means of training for war. During that time, fighting on horseback is advantageous and so it was very important for the horse to be in sync with its rider. Dressage would entail movements such as pirouettes, piaffes, and courbettes -- those which can be used in the battlefield.

While the Greeks didn't use dressage saddles when riding horses, it is said that they used jointed snaffles to aide their maneuvering. The beginnings of a proper dressage saddle would be developed by the Assyrians about 700-800 BCE, and consisted of a cloth attached around the horse's girth.

17 BLACK DRESSAGE LEATHER ENGLISH HORSE SADDLE NEW
US $119.99

BLACK ENGISH ALL PURPOSE 15
US $149.99

ARGENTINE TAN CLASSIC DRESSAGE ENGLISH SADDLE 17
US $149.99

Albion Ultima SLK 17 1 2 Dressage Saddle
US $2,750.00

The art of dressage declined during the Middle Ages when soldiers began to use armor to protect themselves. Their horses would be covered in heavy armor that weighed from 50 to more than 150 pounds, therefore hindering any complex movements that classical dressage entailed. The dressage saddle evolved into a stronger piece of equipment that could reliably support an active soldier. The cantle and pommel became higher so that the rider wouldn't be unseated. The seat was padded with wool or horsehair and covered in leather -- something similar to the dressage saddle of today.

The Renaissance period saw the comeback of dressage as warfare made the transition into firearms for combat. Armor was significantly reduced as one could engage the enemy from a great distance. The battles in this era called for chargers -- horses swift in movement so that strategic formations within the army could be executed. Dressage once again comprised of critical action on the part of the horse.

It was also during the Renaissance that the design of dressage saddles began to branch out. In England, as foxhunting became popular, so did it call for a modification of the saddle structure. The pommel and cantle had to be lowered so that jumps would be safer and more comfortable. The flap's angle was also adjusted so that the equestrian saddle could achieve a better position during a high jump.

The dressage of today came about during the Twentieth Century in the standards of Olympic sports. Rather than being used for war, dressage has become a competitive sport practiced by all countries in the world. Men and women of all ages are now welcome to take part in this activity that is both fulfilling and enjoyable. It is regarded as a time-honored tradition that encourages lightness, balance, and harmony between the rider and his horse.

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Dressage Saddles – The Distinguishing Characteristics

Admin — Thu, 18 Feb 2010 19:43:45 +0000

By Lisa Blackstone

English saddles differ among themselves in several distinct ways. Primarily, the differences lay in the seat location and the flap shape and flap length. In disciplines like jumping where the rider needs shorter stirrups for extra support, the flap is more forward and shorter to accommodate the bend of the knee. For the same reason, the seat is positioned further back so that the rider is not pushed ahead of the saddle when jumping a fence. Additionally, padding in the seat and knee rolls of a saddle will assist the hunt seat rider, but is not necessary in other English saddles.

Within the discipline of Dressage, the rider sits more upright and with a longer stirrup length than a hunt seat rider because Dressage riders do not jump obstacles. Therefore, the saddle flap is longer and straighter down behind the horse's shoulder than a hunt saddle. The seat is closer to the horse's withers which helps keep the rider's center of gravity in the proper place. The pommel is a bit higher and the deepest point of the seat is more forward as it allows for a longer leg position.

17 BLACK DRESSAGE LEATHER ENGLISH HORSE SADDLE NEW
US $119.99

BLACK ENGISH ALL PURPOSE 15
US $149.99

ARGENTINE TAN CLASSIC DRESSAGE ENGLISH SADDLE 17
US $149.99

Albion Ultima SLK 17 1 2 Dressage Saddle
US $2,750.00

The seat is usually much deeper in a Dressage saddle than a jumping saddle, and allows the rider to comfortably sit up in the saddle yet in a relaxed position to influence the horse. The padding of the panels is usually less than in a hunt saddle to permit a closer feel to the horse. It often has a wider bearing surface than a jumping saddle as well.

Some designs feature more padding in front of the knee, much more than in a jumping saddle, said to assist the rider in keeping the knee down and thigh back. However, there is usually little padding behind the calf, as the rider needs to be able to freely move the lower leg around to give aids to the horse.

The billets of most dressage saddles are very long, to allow the girth to be buckled near the horse's elbow rather than underneath the rider's leg (which would get in the way of giving effective leg aids).

It is important that your saddle fit both you and your horse. When you decide to select a Dressage saddle be sure you measure your horse from his hoof to his withers and then from his withers to his croup. You will need these measurements when you select your saddle to be sure it fits. However, if you ride more than one horse, it is not that practical to buy a different saddle for each one! You can try gel pads that will conform to your horse's shape to help your one saddle fit. Try to fit the saddle such that there is sufficient room between the gullet and the horse's withers and spaced over the spine evenly.

You should also sit in several Dressage saddles to find one that is most comfortable for you. Most often you can visit tack shops and sit in the Dressage saddle you may buy while it is on a saddle stand. Brands and styles vary, so become familiar with them all before spending a lot of money!

Lisa B. Blackstone has been involved in the Arabian horse business all of her life. She is a practicing attorney in the Atlanta, Georgia area. Recently, Lisa launched two websites designed to teach the novice rider about horses and horsemanship. You can visit them at http://www.HorseAndRiderClub.com and http://www.AmericanHorseAssociation.com

She is the host of The Horse and Rider Radio Show at Radio Sandy Springs.

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Amerigo English Saddles

Admin — Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:28:31 +0000

Total Balance and Precision

Amerigo english saddles are created for top level performance, with a correct anatomical design based on equine biomechanics that protects the well being of your horse and produces an efficient seat. Whatever the level of your sport, you and your horse can concentrate fully on your performance, with total balance and precision.

World class english saddles used by world class riders, and anyone else with aspirations! A correct, relaxed seat position allows the leg to naturally fall down into its correct position enabling the rider to ride without tension, while the riders' weight is transmitted to the horse on to those areas where it can carry it without being disturbed from its natural rhythm and balance, allowing it to round its back and engage its hindquarters more easily. Crafted from top quality materials including a variety of wooden spring trees and wool flocked independent panels makes Amerigo one of the most easily fitted saddles, meeting the needs of both horse and rider. Nothing should come between you and your horses' natural movement unless it's an Amerigo saddle.

Pinerolo Dressage

Designed for the overbuilt horse with a high croup. Seat Sizes: 16" - 18.5". Flap Leather: calfskin covered. Flap Lengths: short, normal, long or extra long. Knee Rolls: anatomically shaped. MRP: $3950

Pinerolo Close Contact

For significant compensation between pommel and cantle, hot blooded horses with long shoulders and withers. Seat Sizes: 16" - 18.5". Flap Leather: calfskin covered. Flap Lengths: short, normal, long or extra long. Knee Rolls: anatomically shaped. MRP: $3950

Deep Seat Dressage

Amerigo's best selling dressage model. For horses with significant compensation between pommel and cantle; often with high withers and sloping toplines (hot blooded). This model can also be ordered with the short panels to accommodate the very round horses with no withers (Friesians, Lusitanos and some Arabs). Seat Sizes: 16" - 18.5". Flap Leather: smooth. Flap Lengths: short, normal, long or extra long. Knee Rolls: anatomically shaped. MRP: $3950

DJ Jump

For straighter backs without significant compensation between pommel and cantle, mostly bigger Warmbloods. Seat Sizes: 16" - 18.5". Flap Leather: printed or smooth. Flap Lengths: short, normal, long or extra long. Knee Rolls: anatomically shaped. MRP: $3950

Close Contact Dressage

For straighter backs without significant compensation between pommel and cantle and normal withers (Warmbloods and some Arabs). Seat Sizes: 16" - 18.5". Flap Leather: smooth. Flap Lengths: short, normal, long or extra long. Knee Rolls: anatomically shaped. MRP: $3950

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Dressage Saddles – The Distinguishing Characteristics

Improving the Dressage Seat

Admin — Tue, 05 Jan 2010 15:52:00 +0000

QUESTION: I am 40 and have been riding for five years. I recently acquired a classically trained dressage partner, and my problem is trying to get my seat straight and my legs stretched long and relaxed, so I can follow the horse's motion and sit the trot. Can you help?

ANSWER: Like any other sport, riding takes confidence and hard work. There are many ways to help you improve your seat and legs. I am a strong believer in putting a rider on the longe line -- even advanced riders -- because longeing allows you to concentrate on your position, balance and coordination, while someone else is in control of the horse. Longeing improves your seat and leg position because it makes you realize how dependent you can be on your reins for security when you are riding off the longe line. Longeing can help you develop a longer leg and a deeper seat, which helps you sit better at the trot so your body can comfortably follow your horse's motion.

A longe lesson from a good instructor is best, but you also can have a friend longe you. For safety, begin on the longe with stirrups on a quiet horse while warming up. Then ride without them. Begin at the walk and check your position. Sit on your three points of contact -- the crotch and the two seat bones -- in the deepest part of the saddle. Then stretch your thigh back from your hip, pointing your knee toward the ground. Let your calf fall below your knee and push toward the ground as though you were going to stand over the horse. Keep weight in your heel, not your toe. Stay relaxed, and focus on not clutching with your legs.

Moving up the body, think about the area between the three points of contact of your seat and your belly button. Using your abdominal muscles, stretch upward, so that you straighten your lower back and your weight rests evenly on those three points. Strong abdominal muscles are necessary for the sitting trot, so strengthen your abdominal muscles by using them on and off your horse.

Your upper body can have a huge affect on your seat and legs, so it must hold itself up. Many people are unaware of how much they slump while driving, standing or riding. To correct your posture, adjust your head so your ears are positioned over your shoulders. Bring your shoulder blades together and push your shoulders down. Viewed from the side, you want to have a straight line from your ear to your shoulder, hip and heel. Work to keep this position at the trot and canter. Round shoulders, a hollow back and toes pointing downward are all position problems that can be corrected with good longe work. Once your seat and legs are more secure, you become less dependent on the reins when you ride off the longe line.

On or off the longe, my students do a lot of work without stirrups, and you can too. This work continues to correct and deepen your seat and leg position. Rising at the trot without stirrups teaches you to stay lower in the saddle and closer to the horse. It also strengthens your legs, which helps keep them longer and more relaxed. Take your stirrups back at the end of your ride, and you will feel the improvement.

As you continue to ride your horse off the longe, work on "keeping the horse with your back." This is a favorite expression of mine. It means learning to feel the horse's back and regulating it with your own back, by controlling your position. Sit deeply and quietly in the saddle, and don't interfere with your hands or legs. For the ultimate image, think of watching a dressage rider sitting elegantly in the saddle as she performs the Grand Prix test. It looks effortless because the aids are invisible and the rider and horse move together as one. As you learn to keep the horse with your back, your half halts, transitions, changes of bend and lateral work will become better and better.

Lastly, just as you take care of the horse's body, be sure to take care of your own. Strengthen your abdominal muscles with "crunches." Use stretches, massage and chiropractic work. Without these, I usually end up in pain, and that changes the way I ride.

Anneliese Vogt-Harber trains and instructs at Vogt Riding Academy in Atlanta, Georgia. She earned her USDF bronze, silver and gold medals on her stallion, Tulipan Neopol. After studying in Germany, she earned the German bronze and silver medals for her riding.

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Improve Your Dressage Seat

Admin — Sat, 02 Jan 2010 15:45:33 +0000

Figure 1

Figure-Eight Exercise

1. In this simple exercise, as the horse turns from one direction to another--around two benches beside my ring, or around cones or trees or whatever you have--you can feel his hips move under your seat and become aware of how your balance changes slightly to keep you in the middle of the saddle.

You learn to follow and stay in the center. Depending on your level, you can use this information to weight your inside seat bone slightly more in canter or shoulder-in, for example. Here, as Laurenzo turns to the right, he has to put more weight on his inside hind leg; I feel his right hip come up underneath me.

Figure 2

2. As we turn to the left to go between the benches, you can clearly see that my hips and his hips are aligned. I'm sitting in the center, and there's a balanced connection between my seat and his hindquarters.

Riding Outdoors on Uneven Footing

As Laurenzo picks his way over the stones in the bottom of the stream, my hands are soft, out of his way, following his movement and not interfering with his balance.

Here, because he's just about to step up the bank, I'm leaning a little more forward, keeping my seat--my center of gravity--directly over the center of his back. Nothing about my seat or leg changes; I could be in the dressage ring.

Figure 3

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Finding Your Dressage Leg

Admin — Wed, 30 Dec 2009 15:41:35 +0000

New dressage riders who arbitrarily lengthen their leathers end up riding "heels up/toes down" or with their legs thrown forward, bracing against their stirrups. Those who have tried to stretch by riding without stirrups often pinch with their knees, making the lower leg unstable.

The basic tenet that these riders overlook is the intrinsic harmony of the dressage seat. Like any physical effort requiring balance-riding a bike, ice skating, walking-the effective dressage position comes from the sum of the parts. If you are not quite in alignment from ears to ankles, your position is not secure. Your leg naturally shortens to maintain your stability. And, under this condition, it will remain short no matter how long the stirrups get.

The key to finding your dressage leg is locating your center of gravity and opening your hips. Once you do, your legs will "want" or need a longer stirrup. A good exercise for finding your center of gravity is to shorten your stirrups, hold your leg entirely off the saddle and make a transition to walk. If you find you have to grab mane or feel insecure, keep your horse walking for a bit, relax and allow your body to find its equilibrium. Once you have stabilized at the walk, ask for the trot. If you make this transition successfully, trot around for a few minutes, taking mental notes as to how your body feels when it is in this position. That is how it should be all the time. After each period of holding your legs off the horse, drop them down and shake them out to avoid cramping.

Because the correct dressage leg drapes the sides of the horse, your hips must be open and your thighs relaxed with your calves lying lightly and quietly on your horse. Many riders are unaware of how tight they are through the hips--and how restrictive this is to their horses.

To check whether this is one of the impediments to your seat, take note of how your hips move during the walk. If you are moving back and forth, you need to open your hips and thighs so that your hips follow your horse's hips, dipping alternately, somewhat like a slow hula. Relax to the extent that you can feel your lower legs alternately touching your horse's sides. If you are fortunate enough to have a mirror, walk toward the mirror, watching your legs, which should swing like parallel pendulums. Try the same thing at trot until it becomes automatic for you to follow your horse's hips. This not only will keep your back relaxed but will help prevent tension in your horse's back. When you do use your back to push him on or slow him down, your aid will be much clearer.

Once you've learned to relax into your horse's swing, pick up your stirrups, adjusted to their usual length. Hold your lower legs on your horse's sides. Now keep them still as your hips continue rising and falling with your horse's hips. This stabilizes your lower leg so that it can be used exactly when and where it is needed.

As soon as you can maintain your equilibrium in a relaxed, supple posture, you will be able to follow the step-by-step exercises outlined here to lengthen your leg. Help to confirm your new position by opening your hips and stretching your legs at the beginning of every ride. As soon as it feels "natural," lengthen your leathers. Forcing it before you're ready simply won't work.

Don't be concerned if, after finding your dressage leg, you occasionally feel a need for a shorter stirrup. The length is often dictated by the conditions under which you are riding, such as the size of the horse's barrel, his level of training, and your state of nerves. Now that you have learned in your development as a rider that you have to wait for your leg to get longer, bear in mind that your stirrup length is the result of what is required at the time.

This article originally appeared in Dressage Today in 2001.

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Ask the Experts: Dressage Stirrup Length

Admin — Thu, 24 Dec 2009 15:39:26 +0000

Question: At what point is a rider ready to lower his or her stirrups? A friend told me recently that I should be riding two or three holes lower so I could have "more leg." All I get when I do that is a wobbly leg. How can I prepare myself for longer stirrups, and when should I begin to lower them?

Answer: There are many opinions among trainers on "correct" stirrup length. It is safe to assume that there is a range of stirrup lengths appropriate for dressage. You mention lowering your stirrups two to three holes; unless your stirrup lengths are very short, this may be a bit radical for your situation.

Many factors affect stirrup length--the length of your leg, the size and shape of your horse's barrel, the level at which you're riding, the type of saddle you use and your own preference. The following guidelines may help you evaluate your situation.

You know that your stirrups are too short if any of the following situations are true:

Your knees are forward against the knee roll even when your heels are down slightly.
Your heels are pushed way down when your knee is in a proper position.
Your upper or lower leg is consistently pinched against the horse.
You cannot get your lower leg around the horse.

Your stirrups are on the long side if any of the following situations are true:

Your heels are not down even when your thighs are stretched downward.
You cannot clear the front of the saddle when posting.
You frequently lose a stirrup, especially at the sitting trot.
You have to reach for them with your toes down.

Sometimes, at the beginning of a lesson, I ask a student to ride without stirrups for five minutes. A tense rider needs to stretch his or her inner leg muscles by lifting the knee away from the saddle for a few seconds and allowing it to fall into a deeper position farther back. Concentrating on one leg at a time and then on both legs simultaneously works well. After a few minutes of stretching and relaxing, the legs are usually more comfortable in a deeper position. At this point, I check the length of the stirrup. The bottom of the iron should be between the anklebone and the heel.

There are a number of factors to consider when deciding whether you can ride more effectively with stirrups on the shorter or longer side. For young, green, spooky or rough-gaited horses, it is helpful to ride with stirrups one or two holes shorter than you would on horses schooling upper-level movements. When a rider's legs are long relative to the horse's barrel, shorter stirrups allow him to make contact with the horse's sides without lifting his heels. When the rider's leg is short relative to the horse's barrel, longer stirrups may be necessary.

Most novice riders err on the side of having their stirrups too short. This seems especially true for riders who ride dressage, but also who ride jumping and/or eventing. I do not like to see people riding on their tiptoes. Likewise, I do not like a lot of bend in the knee with the heels jammed down. A good rider can ride effectively with the stirrups two holes too short or too long.

If you are having trouble lowering your stirrups, it may be a problem with your upper leg. Instruction on a longe line can be an excellent opportunity to work on your legs. I recommend that you find an instructor who produces elegant riders and get some help on the longe line. This personal feedback can help you zero in on what may work for you.

Steven Wolgemuth, U.S. Dressage Federation bronze, silver and gold medalist; winner of many national titles, all-breed awards and top honors at dressage shows on the East Coast; owns and operates Graemont Farm in Manheim, Pennsylvania

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Buying a Used English Saddle

Admin — Fri, 18 Dec 2009 13:30:27 +0000

Aside from the price of a used saddle, there are other areas with which you need to be concerned. Look at the billets on the saddle. Billets are always one of the first things to go. Are they cracked or have they de-laminated (pulled apart)? The billets are what hold the saddle to your horse so it is crucial that they be in good shape. But if they aren't in good shape, don't fret -- they can be replaced. A complete all billet installation will start around $100. Prices will vary between tack repair individuals.


	Photos courtesy of Charlotte's Saddlery.

Next, look at the seat of the saddle. Is there any sign of wear, specifically where the "piping" runs along the outer portion of the seat. Sometimes that will start to split. It's a high friction area because of the way our seat bones contact the saddle. The seat can also be replaced but that can turn out to be an expensive repair. The cost will vary from saddle to saddle depending on the condition.

Check the condition of the panels underneath. Are they cracked or showing signs of excessive wear? Panels break down over a period of time. Panels are generally stuffed either entirely with wool or a combination of layered wool, felt, and foam. One is not necessarily superior over the other, but it is often considered easier to restuff the wool flock panels. Once again, a reputable tack repair individual can restuff panels. Prices will vary depending on the condition of the panels but should start around $50.

What about the tree of the saddle? Trees are either wood or fiberglass/plastic. You can't always tell whether a saddletree is broken or not without literally taking the saddle apart. There is a little test that you can perform when considering a saddle. Hold the saddle lengthwise (pommel first) against your thigh. Grasp the cantle or rear of the saddle and gently pull toward yourself. A saddle with a sound tree will give or flex when you are pulling. However, an excessive amount of give, where it looks like the seat is buckling, might be an indication that there is a problem with the tree.

Trees can be repaired but it's a very specialized process and should be done only by a qualified repair person. The cost can be high, but sometimes can be considerably less than the purchase of a new saddle.

In summary, use your commonsense when buying a used saddle. Don't necessarily be concerned with the age of the saddle. An older saddle can be in better shape than a newer one that has not been well cared for. Look at the overall appearance. Has the previous owner maintained (cleaned and conditioned) the saddle on a regular basis.

If the saddle looks dry but otherwise in good condition, remember that a good conditioner can do remarkable things, so the saddle may be worth your consideration.

Don't let price throw you. Most sellers are willing to negotiate. Concentrate on what you and your horse require. Don't try and fit the saddle to your horse in your mind. Take the saddle home or have it sent to you so you can put it on your horse. Most shops will allow you to do that.

Helpful I.D. Hints: All Crosby saddles have an "M" or "W" stamped on the near side stirrup bar. That indicates a medium or wide tree. Stubben stamps the tree size, a 28 cm(centimeter), 29cm, 30cm, 31cm, or a 32 cm on the far side billet guard indicating tree size with 31 cm being considered medium tree. In earlier years they used the alphabet A,B,C,D etc. (Sometimes this will wear off after time and can't be seen.)

Stubben also stamps the serial number of the saddle on the far side billet guard. When traced back to Stubben, the number can tell you the year the saddle was made, who actually crafted the saddle, flap size, tree size(and probably what they had for breakfast). Passier and Hermes saddles are also stamped with serial numbers that can provide you with some very interesting and helpful info.

This article was originally published in the Charlotte Giddy-Up Gazette.