1st: With saddle measurements, I know how to measure the withers. But do you also need to measure how thick the horse is? Like, the sides?
2nd: Which snaffle bit works best on a horse's mouth (Has the most control but is also comfortable)?
3rd: If I have a 5 1/2 shoe size, what size would my riding boot be?
4th: What saddle pad works best for an english saddle?
5th: What bridle works best for jumping and dressage? Would this one? http://www.doversaddlery.com/ovation-jumper-bridle/p/X1-12578/cn/79/
6th: Should I get horse boots for jumping/dressage?
7th: I already have this helmet: http://www.doversaddlery.com/troxel-legacy-riding-helmet-in-antiquus-colors/p/X1-36027B/cn/39/. For a show helmet should I get a new one, or just put a velvet cover over it?
8th: What Shampoo/Conditioner works best?
9th: For a jumping competition which is better: Just braiding the mane and then fold it over and tie it http://www.fieldstonefarm.org/images/mane%20reduced.jpg sort of like that, or doing a diamond braid like: http://www.haflingerhorses.com/marleeshow4.jpg? (I know they both work for dressage)
10th and Last: Which gloves work best: leather or crochet ones with a bit of leather on them: http://www.doversaddlery.com/ssg-lycrochet-ultraflex-riding-gloves/p/X1-3982/cn/1/
Thanks In Advance!!!!
~Alia
 Stubben Maestoso Medium Tree in 17 Seat US $2,099.00 |
 Stubben Genesis D Deluxe 18 inches Saddle US $2,535.00 |
 Bates Innova Dressage Saddle Size 2 Extd Long Flap US $2,294.95 |
{ 5 comments… read them below or add one }
1. Dunno about that one
2. Probably a full cheek.
3. 5 1/2.
4. A square one with a riser if needed. http://www.doversaddlery.com/rider%92s-international-quilted-cotton-saddle-pad/p/X1-1997/cn/102/
5. Yes. The noseband looks a little high though for Dressage
6. For jumping yeah probably. Boots aren’t allowed in Dressage, you would have to use wraps.
7. You could do either one. Depends on how much money you have.
8. We use this kind. http://www.doversaddlery.com/straight-arrow-mane-n-tail-shampoo/p/X1-22631/cn/4764/ Cowboy magic works well too. Quic Silver works great on grey horses.
9. The button braids are more classic and traditional. I would say that for jumping. I’ve never seen the other in a jumper ring.
10. I have a pair of both. Crochet ones for schooling/cross country. Leather for showing.
I have these leather http://www.doversaddlery.com/product.asp?pn=X1-39034&ids=27684736 And grey gloves like you posted.
1. Not like the horse’s barrel or anything, but especially up by the withers you need to know if the saddle will be too narrow and pinch or too wide and fall on the withers and rub
2. Depends on the horse. Technically, the thinner a snaffle, the more harsh it is but harshness does not always mean control. My horse goes best in a french link snaffle
3. It depends on brand. My Ariats are size 6 and I wear 5.5 shoes
4. One of these: http://www.doversaddlery.com/rider%92s-international-quilted-cotton-saddle-pad/p/X1-1997/cn/102/ and one of these: http://www.doversaddlery.com/fleeceworks-fxk-technology-full-saddle-pad/p/X1-19465/cn/102/
5. It’s a flash bridle, so it isn’t bad. But it’s brown. Is your dressage saddle brown? Probably not. I would splurge and get two bridles here, especially since dressage bridles look more like this: http://www.doversaddlery.com/product.asp?pn=X1-1212&ids=27684072
6. Jumping yes, dressage if you want to, but not for competitions
7. You could put a cover on it if you are doing lower level shows
8. I always use Cowboy Magic but this is a preference thing
9. I’m pretty sure you can only use the diamond braids for certain breeds. The other horses should be braided in dressage braids http://amylynn7.myweb.uga.edu/Images/buttonbraids.gif . Jumpers don’t need to be braided. Hunters do
10. I like the crochet ones, but again this is a preference question
Lauren: She was asking about the saddle, not the girth. If you have been around horses that long you should know they are two separate things.
you do need to measure the barrel of the horse for a cinch or a gitrth sixze cassie or lassie whatever her name is is wrong i have had horses for 13 years and have trained them for 12 years so i would know
im wondering a few of these same things so ima just follow your answers and stuff to see what people think.
thanks!
1. The width of the withers = width of the tree
Your own thigh length/width = size of the seat which should not be so long it sits on the horse’s loins.
These two measurement should (hopefully) give you the correct size tree, but that does not mean the saddle well fit your horse. You must sit the saddle on the horse and check the fit (see light from the back if you look down the gullet, make sure that panels aren’t touching the spine, make sure that seat is level, make sure you can fit 3-4 fingers in the front arch while you are in the saddle) Even after these checks you should get it checked by a saddler. If you have the correct tree a saddler should be able to adjust it to fit if it doesn’t (sometimes).
2. It depends. Gentle bits and good riding give you the most control. If you are having problems, ask yourself what *you* are doing wrong before looking at your horse or tack.
I almost always use a single jointed or french link snaffle. Single jointed have a nut cracker action but french links put more pressure on the tongue, it depends what the horse prefers.
As someone else has said thinner bits are harsher, but my horse prefers them because she has a small mouth. (I’m riding her in Dr. Cook’s bridle at the mo which gives good control.).
I have also ridden a horse which was very strong cross country, who was ridden in a snaffle bit and hackamore nose band. This worked very well but I did have to ride with 2 reins. You can get combination bits which transfer some of the bit pressure on to the nose.
If you are have problems steering D-ring and full-cheek snaffles are good, because they put pressure on the side of the face too.
Dr. Cook, hackamores and combination bits aren’t dressage legal.
3. Support your local tack shop and go and try them on.
4. If the saddle fits well then you want a very thin pad just to keep the saddle clean, or nothing at all.
If the horse has a sensitive back, or little fat/muscle, or hasn’t been ridden for a while then you might want a thicker pad for extra cushioning, BUT this will change the fit of your saddle. Discuss what pad you will need with your saddler when you have your saddle fitted. If you horse changes shape (or you know they will change shape) you can use a pad to change the fit temperately, but this isn’t ideal and you well have to have the saddle altered or get a new one.
5. Ask yourself what bit/noseband/bridle works best for your horse. Most of the common ones are legal for both sports. Don’t let anyone tell you, you need a "dressage bridle" there is no such thing, just dressage fashions. A standard snaffle bridle can be used in both SJ and low level dressage (higher levels need a double bridle).
6. It’s a good idea to protect the tendons for jumping. My horse is very good at snapping her feet up so I use close fronted tendon boots, (useful for x-country too) but if your horse doesn’t, then open fronted tendon boots will let him feel the poles. You only need fetlock boots if your horse brushes with the hind feet or you are jumping at a level that asks for tight turns.
Dressage doesn’t allow you to use any leg protection in competition but some brushing boots or wraps/bandages could be useful for teaching new moves and you should use them for lunging too.
7. At lower levels you mainly just have to be dressed safe and fairly smartly. A cover should be fine but if in doubt ask the organizers.
8. I don’t wash my horse. Just plenty of elbow grease.
9. You don’t have to braid the mane at all for show jumping. The traditional button braid will stay in and look neat for longer, but you must start with a pulled mane. If you don’t want to pull your horse’s mane, then you can do a running braid or leave it loose.
10. It’s personal choice. I like crochet ones, but leather is smarter for competition.
Wow! Long enough?